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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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I wasn’t the only one running from the storms. The sailors where racing into the harbour.
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Storm Runners
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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All was quiet on SuRi. With gusts pushing the waves, I was happy to drop my supplies and head to solid ground.<br /><br />Back in Kerikeri the holidays were in full effect. The only local accommodation left was B&B type hotel located out in the bush. The overnight price was three times what was reasonable. The unabashed owners invited me to join them and their other guests on the veranda. Instead I took my cold fish & chips and retired in quiet protest.<br />
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Quiet Before
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Who wants to start the day off stuck on a beach? I wasn’t really stuck. With the overnight storms blown through, I was just early to SuRi. No one was really moving except the crew.
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Almost Beached
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Waiting for passengers really isn’t too hard in a place like this.
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Waiting for Work
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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The sign warned against letting the dogs loose because there were kiwi in the tall grass. I couldn’t find them. I’m told they only come out at night.
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Kiwi Corral
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Just up from the beach was the site of the Oihi Mission Station. It was the site of the first European settlement established by Samuel Marsden in 1814. The station was built on land 'donated' by the local Maori. At the site of the monument, Reverend Marsden preached the first Christmas service in New Zealand.<br /><br />Five hundred years before that the Mâtaatua, one of the large Mâori migration canoes, sailed into the Bay of Islands. The Polynesians originally set out from Hawaiki and landed in the Bay of Plenty. There was some kind of fight over food, and Puhi took the ocean-going canoe northward, settling in the Bay of Islands. Legend has it that the final resting place of the Mâtaatua was at Tâkou Bay in the Bay of Islands.<br /><br />Unlike the aboriginal people of Australia, the Europeans and Mâori reached a mutually agreeable accommodation. It could be because the Mâori were every bit as ruthless as the interlopers. Or, maybe they learned from the Europeans.<br /><br />Over in the cold Chatham islands lived a peaceful people known as the Moriori. Theirs was a culture of non-violence and passivity.<br /><br />In December 1835 some of the Mâori in the Wellington area were contemplating a likely place to invade. Where better than islands that don’t believe in resistance. Off they sailed on a hijacked European ship. In short order the invaders ritualistically killed some 10% of the population, eating some, and enslaving the rest. The killing ritual involved staking women and children on the beach and leaving them to die horribly over several days. The genocide was completed by forbidding the enslaved Moriori from marrying or having children.<br /><br />I haven’t been able to find any written record of Marsden’s Christmas sermon. Maybe it didn’t make it down to the Wellington Mâori in time to be of any benefit to the Moriori.<br />
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Marsden Cross
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Frank A. Carr - Mar 05,2014
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Dan, I'm not up on the Mâori vs. the Maori, but I'm wondering if there continues to be any underlying strife among the population, especially on the North Island.<p>And, as we've come to expect, your photos are awesome, thanks for sharing your adventures.<!-- >'"><br><font color=red size=6>' or > missing in user HTML. Please fix the HTML.</font> -->
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Dan Nickens - Mar 05,2014
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There is a back story to an evening on the taxi driver's farm, Frank.<br /><br />There is a substantial population of native Maori in the area of Kerikeri. It seemed to me that they were well integrated into the life of the little tourist village. My interaction with the original inhabitants was easy and pleasant.<br /><br />Kevin and his wife live out in the country. They moved from Auckland after he retired from the automotive industry. The farm was their escape from the bustle of the city and a changing culture.<br /><br />There has been a large immigration movement to New Zealand from China. The population of Auckland is now 40% Asian. Kevin was concerned by the rapidly changing character of the city. He was happy to move into an area with a traditional mix of Maori and European Kiwis.<br /><br />Living out in the country for the last ten years, he and his wife enjoyed the serenity of the benign countryside. The country life was, however, a bit too quiet. He decided to take up driving the taxi out of an interest in more of a social life. He told me he really enjoys meeting the city folk from Auckland on their vacations.<br /><br />When we arrived at the country estate, Kevin’s wife reminded him to lock the car. He had to turn around and go back to it as if it were an unfamiliar matter.<br /><br />As we were ready to retire for the evening, she reminded him again to make sure the doors were locked. Kevin must have seen my raised eyebrows.<br /><br />“It’s the young Maori,” he explained. “Lately they have been breaking into homes around here.”<br /><br />As with many young people of many nationalities, unemployment is particularly high. “They’ve got nothing to do but drink and dope,” Kevin said sadly.<br /><br />“Last night there was a break-in at my neighbor’s house. A car with several young Maori had been seen early in the day cruising around here. Then, when my neighbor got home, she found one crawling through an open window in her house. Fortunately he took off and there was no more drama.”<br /><br />It may have been an isolated incident, Frank, but it had a huge impact on the perception of security among the farm folk. And, sadly, it generated a generalized fear of the young Maori.<br /><br />I slept with the bedroom window open anyway in hopes of hearing the kiwi in the bushes.<br />
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Frank A. Carr - Mar 06,2014
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Interesting Dan. It's been 5-6 years since our last visit to NZ and we sensed a bit of what you are describing, which was the reason I asked. I was not aware of the large Asian population growth. The stats I recall were 2 Million folk and 50 Million sheep.<!-- >'"><br><font color=red size=6>' or > missing in user HTML. Please fix the HTML.</font> -->
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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With the guests sleeping in, the SuRi slipped quietly out of its anchorage leaving me to follow.
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Moving Out
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Frank A. Carr - Mar 05,2014
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Dan, i'm curious (or forgetful): Why does the Chopper have readily visible N <br />markings but the SeaRey not?
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Dan Nickens - Mar 05,2014
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It's pretty simple, Frank. The helicopter's paint scheme was designed by some muckity muck designer. The SeaRey scheme was influenced mainly by the pilot's fear of easy identification.
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Frank A. Carr - Mar 06,2014
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Got it.
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Even in a SeaRey it wasn’t hard to keep up with the boat.
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Easy to Catch
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Since there was no hurry to catch up with SuRi I looked for a nice beach to pull up on. See that nice little one tucked into a well protected cove? Perfect! Except that it was just too easy and too quick. The search must go on!
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Looking for Beach
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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At the beginning of World War II the rapid expansion of Japanese conquests resulted in military preparations by New Zealand. Gun emplacements were established and the bay was mined.
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Guns Gone
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WWII Military Installations Bay of Islands
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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With the guns gone, it doesn’t take long for the green stuff to move in. Isn’t there a song about that?<br />Where have all the guns gone, long time passing?<br />Where have all the guns gone, long time ago?<br />Where have all the guns gone?<br />Gone to green groves, everyone.<br />Oh, when will they ever learn?<br />Oh, when will they ever learn?<br /><br />The green looks like good progress. It is, here and there. But not everywhere. How lucky is it to be where it’s just green and blue, with just an occasional sprinkling of grey!
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Guns Gone Green
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Who would think that such a serene and beautiful spot would be the site of a deadly killer whale attack. In 2010 a group of tourists witnessed an attack on a mother porpoise (a False Killer Whale or Psuedo Orcas) and her pup. After chasing the porpoise to the point of exhaustion, the orca tossed the mother into the air, breaking her back in the fall and leaving blood red water to mark their extinction.<br /><br />If you can bear to stand witness to such brutality, lurking just beneath the surface, the photos are at:<br /><a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1261276/Orca-dolphin-killer-Families-astonishing-attack-enjoy-nature-trip.html">http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1261276/Orca-dolphin<br>-killer-Families-astonishing-attack-enjoy-nature-trip.html</a><br />There are no photos showing the beautiful brutality of the flowing lava that created the islands.<br />
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Killing Seas
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Brutually Beautiful
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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The black white and green rock started out red hot, cooled coal black, then acquired a nice white and green cover. It’s progress. A little white guano is better than hot black death.
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Black White and Green Rock
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Another indication that not all is as idyllic below as it looks from above.
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Spider Web
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Even when the islands block the ocean swell, they concentrate the boat wakes, making for some rough SeaReying.
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Busy Bay
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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On the Pacific side of the island it wasn’t all that pacific.
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Rough Side
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Even on a quiet day the Pacific swells batter the ocean side of the islands.
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Rougher Side
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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In addition to the big hole in the big rock on the Brett Peninsula, there were plenty of smaller holey rocks.
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Little Hole
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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SuRi is nicely slower than a SeaRey. After seeing all the sights from above there was still time for another beach break.
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Nosing In
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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This was the only spot in the Bay of Islands without another boat! Found by SeaRey. Much more efficient way to find some solitude than a long search by non-flying boat.
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Channel View
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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All that was left of the little four cylinder engine was an abstract water coloring. It was the perfect memorial to all the fine days it spent motoring around the beautiful bays.
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Hard Reminder
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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It looked like a great spot to sit out and wait on a slow boat. The little SeaRey sat a lot easier pointed towards the sea.
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Sitting Easier
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Seriously, I will leave. Soon. Really.
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Parting View
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Same view, different scene. So many beaches. So much time…the SuRi sure is slow!
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New View
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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Finally the SuRi showed up at anchor. The guests showed up too. Seventeen water alightings, three airport landings, and more than six air hours later the SeaRey was put to bed for the evening.
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Caught Up
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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New Zealand Flax or New Zealand Hemp? Or both. Phormium tenax was used as flax by the Mâori and for hemp by the Europeans. It contains a chemical that is poison to some animals, and produces one of the bitterest tastes possible for any human foolish enough to eat it.<br /><br />It was sunset before the SeaRey was cleaned and parked at the Kerikeri airport. The bitter part of a beautiful day was the prospect of a $500 hotel room. It’s not that I object to spending someone else’s money, but I do object to anyone getting ripped off. The only room in town that was available was possibly a fair value at $100. I said so to the taxi driver, Kevin.<br /><br />Kevin had been my go to guy for several days. He was always ready to go when I needed to get from the airport to anywhere. It was a good thing too, because every available rental car for miles and miles had already been taken.<br /><br />Kevin shared my disgust. “Look, mate, why don’t you just come out to my place and take one of my spare bedrooms?”<br /><br />Well, that was a problem. I dislike staying in bed & breakfast places. The prospect of staying in a stranger’s house was very uncomfortable. The alternative was to pay an extorted ransom for a nondescript hotel room. <br /><br />I went with uncomfortable.<br /><br />That didn’t last long. Kevin and his wife treated me like a long lost mate. When we arrived at their farm, I was shown to a very private room that would have been worth $500 at any hotel. Kevin’s wife had prepared a full grilled steak dinner that rivaled anything the SuRi’s chef could concoct. And, as pleasant as the company was, they didn’t try and keep me from a quick retreat to my luxury suite.<br /><br />Not a bitter ending at all. Just another black beginning turned out beautiful.<br />
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A Bitter Weed
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Don Maxwell - Mar 04,2014
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Ohhh, Dan. I don't know how you can stand it--all that dreaded flying and landing and taking off! What a burden it must be!
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Dan Nickens - Mar 04,2014
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You are sooo right, Don. As Kipling once advised....<br /><br />Take up the White Man's burden--<br />Send forth the best ye breed--<br />Go bind your sons to exile<br />To serve your captives' need;<br />To wait in heavy harness,<br />On fluttered folk and wild--<br />Your new-caught, sullen peoples,<br />Half-devil and half-child.<br /><br />Take up the White Man's burden--<br />In patience to abide,<br />To veil the threat of terror<br />And check the show of pride;<br />By open speech and simple,<br />An hundred times made plain<br />To seek another's profit,<br />And work another's gain.<br /><br />Take up the White Man's burden--<br />The savage wars of peace--<br />Fill full the mouth of Famine<br />And bid the sickness cease;<br />And when your goal is nearest<br />The end for others sought,<br />Watch sloth and heathen Folly<br />Bring all your hopes to nought.<br /><br />Take up the White Man's burden--<br />No tawdry rule of kings,<br />But toil of serf and sweeper--<br />The tale of common things.<br />The ports ye shall not enter,<br />The roads ye shall not tread,<br />Go mark them with your living,<br />And mark them with your dead.<br /><br />Take up the White Man's burden--<br />And reap his old reward:<br />The blame of those ye better,<br />The hate of those ye guard--<br />The cry of hosts ye humour<br />(Ah, slowly!) toward the light:--<br />'Why brought he us from bondage,<br />Our loved Egyptian night?'<br /><br />Take up the White Man's burden--<br />Ye dare not stoop to less--<br />Nor call too loud on Freedom<br />To cloke your weariness;<br />By all ye cry or whisper,<br />By all ye leave or do,<br />The silent, sullen peoples<br />Shall weigh your gods and you.<br /><br />Take up the White Man's burden--<br />Have done with childish days--<br />The lightly proferred laurel,<br />The easy, ungrudged praise.<br />Comes now, to search your manhood<br />Through all the thankless years<br />Cold, edged with dear-bought wisdom,<br />The judgment of your peers!<br /><br />Rudyard Kipling, 'The White Man's Burden' 1899<br />
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Don Maxwell - Mar 04,2014
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Good old Ruddy! But I'm afraid he was an Imperialist, no matter what he wanted us to think, and whether we're to read the 'White man's burden' as straight or as ironic isn't clear. Maybe it's a better poem that way, though. Sometimes there's strength in ambiguity.
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