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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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The town of Gizo (not to be confused with Ghizo, the island on which Gizo resides) was not far from Lemba Bay where SuRi parked. Gizo's airport is actually on the much smaller island of Nusatupe just off Gizo's shoreline. As specified in my permit, I broadcasted my position and intentions every time I flew by on 118.1.
After a few passes a commuter airline guy suggested I might want to use 118.6 since it was the local frequency. I responded that I was required by my permit to broadcast on the wrong frequency but that I would also monitor and use the local frequency for the Western Province. In a remarkable display of bureaucratic efficiency I got an e-mail later that same day modifying my permit to require use of the local frequency when operating in the distant provinces.
Gizo is a fair size town for the Solomon Islands. Not that there was a lot of local air traffic. Still, for a town that was hit by a tsunami in 2007, it was still hanging in on the edge of the land.
Good thing too. One of the guests injured his wrist. He was taken to the local hospital for examination. Gizo's hospital is a modern outpost having been rebuilt by the Japanese government after the tsunami. The examining doctor was a young lady from Australia doing her internship. Asked about the fine medical facilities, she said it was a national gift in lieu of war reparations.
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Gizo
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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When you are a little island in a large lagoon subjected to war, volcanoes, earthquakes, and tsunamis, having a fluid form is a positive survival mechanism.
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Landflow
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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Sunga really spun me up for the day. He told me there was a Grumman F6F-3 Hellcat in 30' water, so complete that the cockpit instruments are still intact.
He didn't have a GPS position, merely indicating it lies in the Vonavona lagoon. It was ditched there after being shot down by the legendary Major Gregory "Pappy" Boyington in September 1943. The Hellcat was flown by Distinguished Flying Cross winner Richard W. Moore. He won the medal in Korea. In the Solomon Islands he shot down three Zekes and two biplanes in one battle in January 1943 before crashing off Kolombangra Island. (This was after being shot down two days earlier over Munda.)
Moore was flying as part of a cover mission to Ballale Island when the 70 U.S. fighters tangled with 40 to 50 Zeros and Tonys. It was not a good day for the Allies. The score was even: 3 Zeros and 3 Hellcats downed.
Or maybe 4 Hellcats down.
During the battle Moore found himself being attacked by a Corsair flown by Boyington. From 100 yards away he was hit at least twice, including one to the engine. Moore fired back warning shots and apparently Boyington finally realized his mistake and broke off. Unfortunately one of the hits had been to the oil tank. Moore nursed his stricken Hellcat back towards home base at Munda.
He didn't make it. He had to ditch in Blackett Strait 100' from a reef in the Vonavona Lagoon. Executing a perfect full flap landing, he was able to climb out on the wing and into a native raft. The native took him to Lt. Evans of the Australian Army, the same guy who helped rescue John F. Kennedy.
Dick Moore had one more crash before the end of the war. In August 1945 he ditched near Japan and was picked up by a U.S. destroyer.
All that experience ditching kept the Hellcat at Vonavona from serious damage. Pictures show a beautifully intact airplane clearly visible in the shallow water. How hard could that be to find?
I was optimistic until I saw how big the reefs were.
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A Great Barrier Reef
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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This little island was known as Kasolo Island, or Plum Pudding Island, until the 1960's. That's when a Navy captain, who along with his struggling crew, took refuge on the island, was elected president of the United States. PT-109 was cut in two in Blackett Strait. Trying to evade capture, and maybe local headhunters, this little spot was where they came ashore. It is now a tourist attraction.
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Kennedy Island
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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Not all the local accommodations were simple huts.
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Local Luxury
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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Being the only aerial vehicle on SuRi had a downside. Now whenever anyone wanted to see something, my personal search for the Hellcat was interrupted. A mission to see the old volcano on Kolobangara Island was one of the diversions.
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Volcano Viewing
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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Flying to the volcano we passed by an old Japanese airstrip, Vila, on the southern end of Kolombangara Island (part of the New Georgia Islands) next to a Lever Brothers coconut plantation. I didn't land because the field is privately owned by a big corporation. And the airstrip hadn't been used in a long time as evidenced by ruts and bushes. And I had a New Age masseuse with me. I feared any one of those factors could lead to complications.
Later I heard there are old guns and wrecked Jap airplanes pushed off into the bush adjacent to the airfield. If I had known that, I would have risked possible exposure to more new age philosophy.
The masseuse had been to Vila before (I assume it was in this lifetime because she said flew in by helicopter). She told me that during the war the airstrip was covered with camouflage and Japanese aircraft landed under cover. Like landing in a tunnel. Showing remarkable restraint, I didn't even roll my eyes (well, not while she could see).
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Vila Airfield
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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Not that I don't like volcanoes, but this one was cold. Finding a Hellcat would be really, really hot. The masseuse assured me, however, volcanoes are an outlet for Earth's natural energy and being in proximity would be sharing in that source. I didn't bother her with the more mundane viewpoint of a geologist and wreck hunter. I'm pretty sure I'd gotten a lot more boost out of finding the Hellcat than from flying over the volcano.
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Topping Volcano
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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Northeast of Ghizo Island is the 450' long wreck of the Toa Maru. She ran aground after attack by airplanes from Henderson Field. The guests went diving on the wreck and one wanted to see it from above. All that was visible was the shadow of a ship that had slipped into deep water with her sinking.
There were two regrets from the day. I never found the Hellcat. And I missed seeing Vella Lavella Island. It was the home base of Boyington's Black Sheep squadron. The TV show always referred to the island as Vella La Cava. Vella Lavella sounds much more exotic to me.
I've been told, "Always leave a reason to come back." Great. One is enough. The reasons to return to the Solomon Islands were starting to really add up.
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Ghostly View of Wreck
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Steve Kessinger - Oct 02,2015
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Hope the divers took some pics, I'd love to see what she looks like now.
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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Here you go, Steve: Pacific Wrecks. The Dive Gizo site has a great picture of the Hellcat.
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Pacific Wrecks
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Dive Gizo
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Steve Kessinger - Oct 03,2015
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Yeeeeaaaaaah.... that can be restored to flying condition. :-)
Funny thing is, I've seen enough warbirds, if I was down there I'd rather do the manta dive.
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Randy Flood - Oct 02,2015
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Dan you have my DREAM JOB!!!! If Suri ever needs a new Unlimited Master (with a pilot's license, and count them 78 hours of Searey time!!) please call!!!! I am green with envy!
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 02,2015
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No way, Randy. I would only recommend Captains WITHOUT SeaRey experience. (You think I'm crazy?.....Well, never mind. No need to answer.)
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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Bright sunshine was enough to chase away any disappointment from earlier missed opportunities to find a Hellcat.
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Calm Before
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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SuRi parked in the "berth base" used by PT boats after the capture of Rendova by the Allies. It was from this area that PT-109 left to go on its fateful last patrol.
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PT Base
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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SuRi had moved 35 miles northwest overnight to get to Rendova Island. During WWII two islanders did the same thing in their dugout to deliver a message inscribed on a coconut shell advising of Kennedy's ship wreck. After a rough crossing overnight in SuRi, it was hard to imagine doing it in a canoe.
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Base Beach
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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SuRi is more than 2.5 times longer than PT-109. SuRi grosses 1352 tons. PT-109 weighed in at a maximum of 56 tons. SuRi is made of steel. PT-109 was made of wood. SuRi has two 1800 hp Caterpillar diesel engines. PT-109 had three 1500 hp Packard engines running on aviation fuel. SuRi has a maximum speed of 12 knots. PT-109 had a maximum speed of 41 knots.
Unfortunately for PT-109, the tropical Pacific is a great place for growing stuff on hulls. That growth made the boats slower than the cruisers and destroyers they were designed to attack. That must have made it all the easier to run over too.
It's tough on SuRi too. After the Solomons, she's gone to dry dock in Brisbane for a good hull cleaning.
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Just SuRi
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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Though there were wrecks around (a P-39 Airacobra, Douglas Dauntless Dive Bomber, and a "big bomber" in the jungle), the focus of the guests this day were natural delights. Patrolling the reefs from 50' up we saw sharks, manta rey, porpoise and turtles. I'm told there is an occasional crocodile but none were spotted.
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Just an Island
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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Sunga told me of the wreckage of "a big bomber" he found in jungle on the ridge of the central volcano. "Can we see it from the air?" I asked. "Possible yes. Big bomber." From his description I assumed it was a B-29. Now I just had to find time to take him with me. I knew I'd never find it with all that jungle to hide in.
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Mountain Mysteries
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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Sunga also told me of a SBD-4 Douglas Dauntless dive bomber ditched in the harbor. He pointed out exactly where it was located in only 12 meters of water. When I finally got him into the SeaRey we went directly there. Unfortunately the water was a bit murky from recent rainfall and sediment from a stream emptying into the cove.
Fifty two years after it was ditched, Sunga said he dove on the downed airplane with the original pilot. The story he told was that the pilot selected the little cove because it was near a recently captured clinic. His SBD had been damaged by flak and he didn't think he could get back to the airfield. Both crew got out and returned to duty. An overly zealous commanding officer recommended court-martial for the pilot, however, because he thought the airplane could have made it back to base. There was no court-martial, and, after diving on the wreck, the pilot pointed out to Sunga the flak damage to the engine. Sweet vindication a half a century later.
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Ditched Dive Bomber
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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Sometimes it was difficult to get back to the boat. The chef likes to buy fresh coconut. There were plenty of local merchants.
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Coconut Vendors
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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One guy came over and said, "I'm next." What? "My name is Edward and I'm ready to fly away." He was wearing dog tags with a U.S. emblem. I was inclined to take him for a flight, but something about him wearing the dog tag didn't seem right. I didn't respond to his implicit request.
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Ready to Fly?
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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When not involved in wreck searches the SeaRey was put to use spotting porpoise for the guests. It wasn't hard duty. The pods were huge.
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Playing with Purpose
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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Forecast bad weather arrived and Sunga had not yet shown me the big bomber in the jungle. The Captain asked if I wanted to keep the SeaRey onboard. He got a quick "no way" as response.
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Foreboding View
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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With bands of rain moving through there were still times the SeaRey could fly. And, it was still the best way to find elusive porpoise, or wrecks.
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Tropical Parking
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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The SeaRey wasn't the only small vessel out in bad weather. This small family was venturing into the squalls in a little wooden canoe.
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Boating Family
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 07,2015
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So many war stories forgotten! So many tales untold! Every wreck an unpublished book.
Despite the crummy weather I really, really wanted to find the wrecked B-29. I sought out the local guy, Sunga, and asked him to fly with me.
"Always ready for fly," Sunga said.
Under low, heavy clouds we climbed up a ridge towards the volcano. The clouds seemed to push us down, squeezing us closer to the dull gray metal of the rocks and dark green jungle. With one eye on the closing ground and one on the closer clouds, I asked Sunga, "Do you think we will see anything from overhead?"
In his sing song dialect, Sunga enthusiastically replied, "Yes, yes, yes. We will see. Big, big bomber..." Shaking his head, a little less excitedly he added, "But just little pieces." Then, "There! There! You see! Bomber!"
What I saw was a glimmer of silver gray lying on the side of the steep incline. I sharply reversed course, eliciting a muffled "Oh," from my passenger.
The ragged metal was clearly out of place in a bare spot of the jungle. Stenciled on the piece was a readily identifiable number confirming it wasn't of local origin. I continued my steep circle looking for other pieces.
Sunga had told me there were engines and wings and other identifiable pieces of wreckage nearby. I was certain the larger pieces would be visible from my nearness to the ridge top. After a couple of radical circles, though, I didn't see them.
Glancing over at Sunga I could see he wasn't looking at the ground. He was staring blankly into space. He wasn't going to be much help. Rather than risk missing the wreckage, I turned back to my search.
After spotting the first piece, there was nothing more. Even though the ridge was steep, it was densely covered with trees. I widened my circling.
A Texas drawl burst through the headset: "Ya'll might wanna watch where ya going."
With a head jerk I looked up ahead to see a green wall bearing down like a giant wave. Instinctively I jammed the throttle forward while jerking the stick back. In slow motion the SeaRey clawed its way from the entangling tree limbs and vines.
I was about to exhale when the world went gray. The wind and howling engine were still there, but the visible world had disappeared.
I didn't move, holding everything just as it had been before the world disappeared.
My headset thundered: " Ya best start flyin', ya dumb galoot!"
"Huh?"
"For cryin' outloud didn't ya lurn nothin' in school! Fly this thang like you don't wanna die!"
That's when I noticed the Angle of Attack was also screaming in my ear, "Angle! Angle! Push! Push!" I let go of the stick just a bit. A glance at the panel showed I was in a slowing, climbing turn. I leveled the wings and settled on a maximum performance climb.
"Bless your little ol'pea pickin' heart, pardner, ya just might make it to supper."
I threw a quick glance at Sunga. He was staring straight ahead without expression. I quickly went back to the flight instruments, but asked, "You ever been to Texas, Sunga?"
I got no answer. No matter, I was too busy setting the airplane up for a stable climb.
"Now that's what I been tryin' to tell ya to do. I wish I'd had me some of them fancy do dads."
"Do dads?"
"Your flying gauges, mister. They's the fanciest I seen and prettier than any Christmas tree lights too."
I looked quickly at Sunga. He wasn't talking. I made sure my finger wasn't on the transmit button. In my confusion I decided it was best to concentrate on flying the airplane blind than to figure out where the voice was coming from.
It took forever minutes before the SeaRey climbed out of the low clouds into the gray between layers. I backed off on the throttle, lowered the nose and set up for level cruise, turning away from the still menacing bulk of the volcano.
"Ya know ya just about screwed the pooch back there, doncha?"
"Um, who am I talking to?" Then, more urgently I asked, " Where are you?"
"Now doncha get all riled up, flyboy. I ain't gonna leave ya."
I looked at Sunga. It was like he was catatonic. He wasn't talking or even looking at me.
"Now that's down right funny. Ya think he's agonna help ya fly this thang?"
"Um, no."
"Dern right. That's your job. And if ya don't mind me sayin', you was pretty much cattywompus back there. Looked like a one legged cowpoke in a butt kickin' contest."
I checked the radio frequency. It was still tuned to the common northern sector frequency. It was not showing any sign of incoming transmissions.
"Who are you?"
"I'm sure 'nuff your bestest flyin' buddy taday."
"Are you a pilot?"
"Was, but that was a ways back. Now I'm kinda hanging out trying ta help folks like you."
I scanned the skies. "I don't see you."
"Don't mean I'm not here. Hmmm.... Well, it sorta does."
"Sort of?"
"Yeah. Sorta. Here, but not really. Just around."
"That's confusing."
"Don't go getting yourself all wrapped around the axle, mister. Ya'll find out soon enough. There's plenty a stuff you ain't figured out yet."
The SeaRey was slowly moving well away from the volcano and past SuRi's position shown on the GPS. I was still above the low clouds and couldn't see the yacht. I circled back towards the island.
"Ya best not get too close. Them rocks are hard."
"Do you live here?"
"I don't LIVE here. I am here."
"What do you mean? You're from somewhere else?"
"Was. Ended up here on the side of that gol'derned mountain back there."
"In an airplane?"
"In that bomber ya was gawkin' at."
"In the bomber?"
"Ya sure not the sharpest tool in the shed, are ya?"
"Well, this doesn't make sense."
"That's what I said! We was all shot up. One engine gone. One hurtin'. Couldn't maintain altitude. It was night. The captain, Chuck, was too hurt to help me. When we dropped into the clouds a ways back. It was blacker than midnight under a skillet. I couldn't see a thing. It was all I could do to keep us in the air."
"But you knew where you were, right? You had a navigator?"
Silence, then, "Had a navigator. He was kilt over the target."
I didn't know what to say. I whispered, "I'm sorry."
"Ain't nothin' for ya'll to be sorry about. That's jus the way it was."
The GPS showed I was over SuRi. I started a slow, wide circle.
"Is that ther yorn ship?"
"It is."
"Must be nice. Hey, look et your fancy pants map! If'n I had such a thang as that there map I might not have smacked the hill and killed my crew."
"It is nice, and I'm lucky to have it. It doesn't sound to me like you had much of chance."
"Ya play the cards ya get, pardner. We drew a short straw."
"I don't see how you can blame yourself for what happened."
"Would ya have blamed your own self if you'd run into the hill back there?"
"Yes, but I wasn't being shot at."
"Ya like to start arguing in an empty house, doncha? We was all jus tryin' to stay alive and get home."
"And I was just looking for some history before going home."
"History, huh? Weren't history to us. It was a whole nother thang."
"I hope you don't mind that we were looking."
"No sir. I don't mind a bit. But I didn't wantcha to join us on the mountain. It's crowded enough as it is."
"There are others?"
"Theys a whole heap of souls, stretching way back yonder in time. We all got our place, and it's about time I got back to mine. If'n ya think you can get this back down by youself now."
I replied with my own drawl, "This ain't my first rodeo, ya know."
Hollow laughter echoed in my headset. "Well, I done stopped preaching and gone to meddlin'. Ya'll take care now. If it ain't too much to ask, ya'll think about us when ya can."
Then he was gone.
It was a simple matter to hold the SeaRey on course over open water and let down through the clouds. SuRi appeared in the windscreen about the time Sunga came back to life.
"What has happened?" he asked. "I was believing we were going to die on that mountain."
"It wasn't our time, Sunga. It is, however, one of our tales now."
What is not a tale is that Sunga and I spotted wreckage on the side of the volcano. I got on my computer and tried to find its story. There was nothing about an airplane on the mountain. There was, however, the report of a B-25 lost in action near Rendova.
On June 22, 1943 a formation of B-25s took off from Henderson to attack the Japanese base at Munda. While flying in tight formation at 6000' near Rendova the formation entered the clouds. A climb was initiated, but when the clouds were cleared at 8500' one of the bombers was missing. The bomber and its crew were never found. They are currently listed as Missing in Action.
I don't know if the wreckage on Rendova found by Sunga is the missing B-25. I did, however, file a report with the Defense POW/MIA Accounting Agency (DPAA). Missing in Action B-25C-5 Mitchell Serial Number 42-53404 Pilot 1st Lt. Melvin R. Van Dyke, O-732597 (MIA / KIA) CA Co-Pilot 1st Lt. Eugene R. Brogan, O-664510 (MIA / KIA) MI Navigator 1st Lt. Hugh D. McNeil, O-731173 (MIA / KIA) DC Engineer SSgt Leo E. Hamilton, 36055197 (MIA / KIA) IL Radio SSgt William Pierce, 19081433 (MIA / KIA) CA Gunner Sgt Frank Spognardi, 31137933 (MIA / KIA) MA Photographer 1st Lt. Harold G. Moran, O-922782 (MIA / KIA) Santa Monica, CA
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Reason to Park
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