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Read what others had to say:
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Dan Nickens - Aug 09,2011
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The boys sitting on the dock were a lot more patient than I am waiting on the bureaucrats. The helicopter pilot easily got his approval in one day. My application is being kicked upstairs for review. Unfortunately my French is not good enough to argue. If I don’t get approved soon, I’ll tell them all the French I know. Or maybe I'll just chill and go dive on the Catalina that rests near the Papeete airport.
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Catalina Wreck
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Watchful Waiting
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Eric Batterman - Aug 09,2011
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Dan, you are my hero. If it's Tuesday, it must be Tahiti
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Dan Nickens - Aug 09,2011
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Being a wanderer of good fortune does have its grand moments, Eric, much like a SeaReyer with his family immersed in the wonders of a northeastern Appalachian summer. Is it Tuesday?
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Dan Nickens - Aug 15,2011
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Don’t you just hate to leave a mission unaccomplished? The agent promised progress “demain”. Sometimes a higher priority interrupts and off you go. The boat called with an emergency: they didn’t have the proper snorkeling gear for kids. A mad ride in a rental car through the narrow streets peppered with French traffic signs got me to the dive shop. Throwing cash got me everything that was requested. Last car on the ferry after I tried to drive on without a ticket!
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Leaving Papeete
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Dan Nickens - Aug 15,2011
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The boat was parked in one of Moorea’s long, protected bays. It was ready to leave. I threw the supplies on board and raced back to the ferry dock to catch the last ride back to Papeete and a promised meeting with Customs the next day.
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Quick Look
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Dan Nickens - Aug 15,2011
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Dealing with agents and governments sucks! I was told to go to meet with Customs and Immigration even though the Aviation Civile had not approved the SeaRey. The Customs guys said “aucun moyen” (No way, Monsieur). The helicopter guy got his stamp in less than 10 minutes. I was told just to go to boat and wait.<br /><br />Great. Where do you want me to go?<br /><br />“Fakarava.” <br /><br />Oh yeah? And you too, Pierre! (I'm starting to learn French.)<br />
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Learning French
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Tim Jones - Aug 15,2011
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Dan,<br />I may be able to help or may be of no help.........but I have a friend who has a friend in Papeete. I am on an airplane in the morning to Kansas City but will make a call to my contact in Portland who's intern is the wife of the director of security in Papeete.......if that will help?
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Dan Nickens - Aug 15,2011
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Cool, Tim. I'm not making much progress so any contact information would help.
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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At least the heli flies in French airspace, although we have a temporary pilot while the old guy is off in the Med with Jemasa. I’m wondering if he’ll have a job when he wants to come back.
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Flying Squirrel
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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It’s not a SeaRey view, but it’s not all bad either. Fakarava is a UNESCO MAB Biosphere Reserve.
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Not Atoll Bad
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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There is one road running the length of the eastern Fakarava atoll and runs through the one town: Rotoava. Most of the 700 inhabitants live in the town.
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Mainstreet Rotoava
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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Sooner rather than later the helicopter has to go back to the boat. It can’t land in the water and there aren’t many places on the island, other than the airport, that it can sneak into. (And you have to have someone who speaks fluent French onboard to go into an uncontrolled field!) The rookie SuRi helicopter pilot did pretty good. We didn't crash. And, better yet, we weren't misunderstood. Not once. So far.
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Coming Back Aboard
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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“What’s this in my SeaRey!”<br />“That’s the ship’s mascot.”<br />“Mascot? What? A white ass?”<br />“Yeah. We figure she’s a pilot.”<br />Hmmmm…..<br />
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Ships Mascot
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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The sun sinks fast and early on the islands. That doesn’t mean it will be quiet on the boat. It’s the last night for guests, and there’s a dance planned.
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Going Quietly into Night
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John Robert Dunlop - Aug 16,2011
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I think I'm going to simply say simply idyllic mate!
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Frank A. Carr - Aug 17,2011
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Awesome sunset Dan. So what's the verdict on the 'Green Flash'?
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Dan Nickens - Aug 17,2011
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I look for it every day, Frank.
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Frank A. Carr - Aug 18,2011
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Me too Dan; what bothers me most is that I think I saw it once.
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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Local talent is called on board for the big finale.
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Boys in the Band
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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While the band was warming up the guests, I snuck the dancers into the galley for a pre-performance snack.
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Stage Fright
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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There was no fright when the kids took the stage. It might have been hokey. It wasn’t.
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You ve Been Served
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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After the dancing was done, the performers got a ride home with Tui. Tui, a native Fijian, started driving the support boats after retiring from a fighting career at home. He is the kindest guy you’d ever hope to meet (good thing too). The kids loved him (or maybe it was a Coke and Candy high?).
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Post Party
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Russ Garner - Aug 16,2011
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Dan, Lou and I own a over the water condo at Club Bali Hai Moorea. <a href="http://www.clubbalihai.com/">http://www.clubbalihai.com/</a>
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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That's a bit of paradise you have there, Russ.
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Don Maxwell - Aug 16,2011
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Dan, you might see if Gauguin's friend, The Sorcerer of Hiva Oa, is available to help with those refractory bureaucrats: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Paul_Gauguin_038.jpg">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Paul_Gauguin_038.jpg</a><br /><br />And if the Sorcerer isn't available, maybe these famous women could help: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Paul_Gauguin_-_Deux_Tahitiennes.jpg">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Paul_Gauguin_-_Deux_Tahiti<br>ennes.jpg</a>
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Dan Nickens - Aug 16,2011
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I haven't seen the Sorcerer, Don, but I have seen her dog. As for the women, they're everywhere (only a bit more modestly dressed...and that's a sad loss of tradition, I must add).
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Who has time to sleep in when there’s a great new day dawning full of beautiful opportunities?
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Morning Break
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Look what happens to the sunshine when an e-mail arrives saying that SeaRey flights are not permitted in French Polynesia! Wait until the Board du Tourism hears about this!
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Dark and Gloomy Day
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Troy iRMT Heavy Maint. Enriquez - Aug 18,2011
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Sorry Dan, it's kind of like being in prison at the Villagio in Las Vegas with nothing but, 100 <br />dollar notes and not being able to make change for a twenty. <br />keep your chin up mate.
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Even though things looked bleak for SeaRey splashing, not all was lost: there were plenty of low riding water toys available to check out the island.
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Some Hope
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Most any day of aviating is better than a totally ground bound day. Even a jet helicopter can do in a pinch.
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Flying Fix
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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There is always hope for tomorrow when the skies clear for another beautiful sunset.
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Nicely Ending
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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When you can’t fly, you get to walk around looking for combs on beaches. This is an example of a pretty sorry comb I found.
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Beach Bound Combing
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Blue is not the only color on the atoll. Some of the local residences have a slightly different color scheme.
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Local Color
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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The local pearl store was outfitted in an artistic manner. There are several black pearl farms on the island. When visiting one of the resorts to drop off some heli-photos I got a handful of pearls in reward. The sign said 700 Polynesian Francs (that’s about $8.75 at the going exchange rate). Who knew aerial photos could be had so cheaply? (Well, actually, the helicopter pilot did get two free beers too.)
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Five and Dime
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Meanwhile, back at the boat, the SeaRey was stuck with its wings all folded and no government stamp to fly on.
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Sad Sight
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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There is some kinda rule that says when you’re on a South Pacific island you have to get a picture of a crooked palm tree. Check.
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Obligatory Palm Shot
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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One of the mainstays of the local economy is coconut. They are collected, drained and allowed to dry. The dried coconut is then shipped to Papeete where oil is extracted for all those fancy soaps and creams.
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Coconut Grove
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Coral grows right along the shore. It is spectacularly healthy. There are two major passes funneling clean ocean water into the lagoon through from the north and south. Snorkeling is phenomenal. The sharks think it’s entertaining too. With the clear water you can see them cruising through the shallows.
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Reef Rocks
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Walking north along the narrow island I came across the ruins of a Mayan temple. Or not. It could have been a not-so-ancient lighthouse.
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Recent Ruins
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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The ocean side of the atoll was a bit more dramatic than the lagoon. There was a narrow reef followed by a deep drop into the waves.
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Open to Ocean
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Jim Moline - Aug 18,2011
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Dan Nickens.....................you have far too much fun for just one person
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Now wait a minute, Jim. You're talking about a grounded SeaRey pilot.
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Jim Moline - Aug 18,2011
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Grounded?...Grounded?.......flashing about in a chopper. Not bad grounding.
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Well, I'm just saying it's no SeaRey.
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Frank A. Carr - Aug 18,2011
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But Jim, he shares his experiences through postings, awesome photos, and an occasional <br />tale.
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Jim Moline - Aug 18,2011
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More like occasional photos and awesome tales
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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Who says underwater photography is hard? It’s easy when the water is crystal clear and shallow too.
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Easy Underwater Photography
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Dan Nickens - Aug 18,2011
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There is very little in the way of tide on the atoll but it doesn’t take much of a wave to wash over the reef....or an inattentive photographer.
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Reef Wash
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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The Tuamotu group of islands that includes Fakarava is a pretty remote part of the globe. The small village of Rotoava is the largest on Fakarava. Tetamanu is much smaller, but it’s situated on the south pass and is a great place for diving when the current isn’t ripping at up to six knots. You have to get over the fear of sharks, though. There are lots. Gray sharks, lemon sharks, white tips, black tips, and all other colors of sharks. At least you can see them in the crystal clear water (and better yet, they can see you and figure that there has to be something else to eat!).
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Going Remote
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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Diving can be exhausting. Rachel couldn’t take it anymore. (This one’s for you, DL.)<br /><br />Note: the photo has been modified to avoid marital complications!
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Dived Out
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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With so many beach spots it’s hard to find just the right one.
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Beach Spotting
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John Robert Dunlop - Aug 25,2011
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Wow! Tough!
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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Finally the Captain just picked a beach. So much for democracy.
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Likely Looking Spot
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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Frank A. Carr - Aug 23,2011
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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The problem with a big boat is that it tends to lead to beach crowding.
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Beach Crowd
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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Even on big beaches you can’t escape the camera.
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No Escape
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Don Maxwell - Aug 22,2011
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Is that Rachael again, Dan? She does have a fetching bee-hind.
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Dan Nickens - Aug 23,2011
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I cannot confirm nor deny, Don, that Rachel has anything of any nature either to fetch, fetched or fetching. On the advice of any competent marriage counselor I am exercising my first amendment right against saying anything stupid, but off the record, it could be Rachel or Salome or Leslie...I was mostly looking at the coconuts.
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Dave Edward - Aug 23,2011
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Who is that running into the palms further down the beach ??....in the no escape pic
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Eric Batterman - Aug 23,2011
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that's Hina (no Lima, not the goddess of thongs)<br /><br />
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Hina
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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Rebecca yields to the call of the wild with a shooter of coconut juice.
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Going Native
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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Mark is a boat captain and native Australian. Despite a bit of a language barrier, he’s going with Alice, the native Tahitian masseuse.
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Going with a Native
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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Miki is a helicopter pilot from Little Rock that was called in to fill in while Captain Z was off on a Mediterranean assignment. Miki definitely went native.
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Gone Bonkers
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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Jason, one of the boat guys, is a New Zealander but he knows how to do it like a native.
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Gone Crazy
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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Finally…not the tidal zone, it’s the Zen zone.
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In a Zone
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Tim Jones - Aug 22,2011
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Dan,<br />Sorry I was of no help on Searey affairs for you. Evidently airport security does not have any power to influence government.......sorry. However, given the journal of your travels, I am happy to see that you have not allowed the 'Man' to keep you down in the South Pacific!
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Dan Nickens - Aug 22,2011
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No worries, Tim. Thanks for checking. I'm still working on it. I’m not going to surrender to the French bureaucrats without a good fight.
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Jeff Arnold - Aug 23,2011
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Is it not easier to ask forgiveness than ask permission? What would happen if you just did it? 'I'm not going to surrender to the French bureaucrats without a good FLIGHT!'
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Russ Garner - Aug 23,2011
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Dan, it's a boomer the French are so snooty down there. They run everything in French Polynesia. The French military has gun boats parked in Cook's Bay most of the time. They will board most boats and go through everything on the boat. It's no surprise that the French gave you a bad time with the Searey, they can be very cool toward Americans down there. I guess it might be hard to sell you on a timeshare down there.
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Dan Nickens - Sep 02,2011
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Not everyone can be off the boat having fun. The Captain, “Ox” Anderson, consults with a local diver to find the best parking spots.
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Captain s Place
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Dan Nickens - Sep 02,2011
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What the Captain sees when he’s not staring out the port holes.
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Captain s View
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Dan Nickens - Sep 02,2011
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The chef, Shawn, is the busiest guy on the boat. It’s best not to mess with him when he’s cooking.
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Chefs Place
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Dan Nickens - Sep 02,2011
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It would be wrong to think that she just washes clothes. In a former life she owned a dive boat on the Great Barrier Reef. Now she’s married to the ship’s engineer and fills in for vacationing crew when the boat is going to a good dive location.
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Laundry Lady
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