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Posted By:
Nickens, Dan
Date Posted:
Mar 28, 2016
Description:
Ah Vanuatu! Bittersweet Pacific Paradise? Languid, sandy beaches. Rustling palm trees. Sweltering tropical sunshine cooled only by tepid, clear water. Islands circled with aquamarine reefs bursting with a rainbow of colors and razor coral. A deep blue Pacific pool flush with predators. Smoking, fiery volcanoes. Smiling, hostile natives. It's a package deal, just as described by Michener in his Tales of the South Pacific.
Before arriving we were warned about visiting in February. It was cyclone season.
""But the weather is beautiful now!"" I said.
""It won't last. We'll pay for this later,"" I was told.
Date Taken:
February 7, 2016
Place Taken:
Havannah Bay, Efate Vanuatu
Owner:
Nickens, Dan
File Name:
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Category:
Yacht_Tending_VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 28,2016
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Port Vila. It's a third world capital town, broiling under the sweltering tropical sun and even hotter politics. The roads are thick with belching diesel minibuses, scrawny dogs, flies, mosquitoes, trash and unrepaired cyclone damage. And those are just the initial barriers to appreciation of its beauty.
Vanuatu is in the midst of ongoing political turmoil. After the latest election, half the politicians are in jail (the other half probably should or will be......same as in the U.S.).
There is cause for confusion. Until independence in 1980, the Pacific islands known as "New Hebrides" were ruled as a "condominium". France and Britain shared responsibility for governance. Each had two local governors with their own police and bureaucrats. The imperial governors spent their reign measuring who had the tallest flag pole, the fanciest car, or the biggest office. The islanders were left to languish in the muddle.
Flying into Vanuatu had very recently become more challenging. Several of the major airlines were refusing to fly their airplanes to Bauerfield International at Port Vila. For some time they had complained that one end of the runway had potholes and distorted tarmac. Their complaints went unanswered. Finally they decided just to boycott the place. The only way in was on a Air Vanuatu B737. Turns out we were on their inaugural flight. It all ended well without falling into one of the potholes.
Port Vila Efate Vanuatu
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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Flight Impediments? It's easy to imagine that securing flight permission for the SeaRey would be a challenge. It was, but not impossible. The New Zealand government paid to set up the Vanuatu Civil Aviation Authority ("CAA" and the rules are much the same. After many months of New Zealand aerial operations, how hard could it be to get by?
Madeline was in charge of validating our flight qualifications. First we had to send her evidence from the FAA that we were indeed licensed and not fleeing aviation prosecution. So how do we prove that? Easy. An e-mail to the FAA for pilot records under the Freedom of Information Act got an immediate response: "A search of the Accident/Incident Data System and Enforcement Information System on February 3, 2016, revealed no Accident/Incident or Enforcement record(s) concerning your name and certificate number(s)." There were a number of disclaimers, but it was good enough for Madeline to give us a test. (The efficiency of the FAA in responding was a marvel...I had a reply e-mail with the information in less than 24 hours!)
Testing was necessary to see if we were smart enough to navigate unfamiliar airspace. The test was open book and multiple choice. It covered a hypothetical scenario involving a commercial charter flight and application of Vanuatu's regulations. There were thirty questions and an hour to complete it with a minimum passing score of 70%. That meant to pass I had to guess correctly 21times. I had been warned that four of the questions had no correct answer.
I was pretty sure that we would not pass because the helicopter pilot took a good part of the hour to argue with Madeline about the first question. He flatly told her that there was no correct answer without additional information. (My prior warning to him that there were four such questions didn't seem to be relevant to him.) He and Madeline went round and round talking over each other. I said nothing. I should have concentrated on the test but the blatant futility was just too entertaining to ignore.
For the remainder of our time, Madeline sat there stone faced as we took the test. No mercy offered. Luckily none was needed.
Vanuatu aviation is operated by a private company. Air Traffic Services collects fees for anything having to do with aviation. We paid for our validation. We set up an account with ATS to pay for flight plans, airport operations, and anything that they could think of to charge us with. If you ever want to clear the skies of everyone but the wealthy, give a private company authority to charge for flight services.
While at the aviation offices we asked about airspace charts. There were none. There hadn't been any in years. What about old charts? No one could find any. (I should have suggested chart publication as a profit opportunity.)
Who cares about charts! With the test past I was excited about getting launched. Back at SuRi the yacht agent squashed that hope. The Port Vila harbourmaster was refusing to talk about seaplane operations. In fact, he had gone into hiding.
Finally the yacht agent went to the harbourmaster's boss. He agreed that it was an egregious situation and suggested the agent talk to the Minister of Transportation. Who is that? No one knew. The old one was in jail. The new government hadn't been formed and so no replacement had been appointed. The agent was back to trying to track down the harbourmaster. Apparently it is not hard to hide on an island.
With no hope of quick approval I suggested I could just taxi out of the harbor like a boat. The captain pointed to the open ocean and said, "It's five miles that way." Hmmm....no thanks." Finally the captain decided if the harbourmaster was going to play dodge ball, he would take his boat and leave.
Leaving in SuRi takes some time. Rob Loneragan had introduced me to a local SeaRey builder and former chief pilot for Air Vanuatu. I took advantage of the introduction and departure delay by accepting Bob Wylie's offer to coordinate with the local air traffic controllers. We went to visit the control tower at THE international airport (Bauerfield).
The controllers were easy. There was no radar. They controlled the old fashion way: looking and talking. If I was out of their sight, I had to call on a phone and let them know what I was doing.
The rules clearly stated that any flight must first have an approved ICAO flight plan on file. The tower controller said that wouldn't be necessary for his purposes. A simple call to let him know what we were doing, where we were doing it, and a call back to say when we were done would do. Simple.
The local control zone extended out fifty miles. It wasn't a circle either. Some of the islands further north that should have been in the only other controlled airspace actually belonged to Port Vila. Who knows why? An old jurisdictional dispute between France and Britian?
Could the controller show me the airspace configuration on a chart? No. But he did have charts from the Australian military showing the airports. I took some pictures of them with my phone. Bob had copies of hand drawn airspace charts that he gave me. All set!
Positive Control 2701 02062016
Airport Port Vila, Efate, VU
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Carr, Frank - Mar 09,2016
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Gives new meaning to the concepts of patience, bureaucracy, frustration, and determination. Fascinating as always Dan.
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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World War II shocked the islands into the modern world. Though the Japanese never got to Vanuatu, the U.S. did. The New Hebrides islands were bases from which the Allies (primarily the U.S.) struck back after Pearl Harbor.
Though the fighting was done elsewhere, there are still war relics around. One, a Grumman Avenger wreck, was outside of airport security. If the air traffic controller was easy, airport security was not.
With Bob along access was no worry. He had a badge. How would it work for visiting pilots and passengers? No one seemed to know. Everyone we talked to had a different answer. Following Bob we worked our way to the top of the corporate security ladder. We got a decree saying that visiting pilots could pass through the security gate with a temporary badge after paying 1200 Vatu (about $10). Passengers, however, would have to go through Domestic Security, stand in line, fill out a form and pay 200 Vt ($2).
Would that work for a visiting billionaire? Not so much.
A helicopter service, tired of the aviation company's bureaucracy, had built a helipad just across the street from the airport terminal. Bob suggested our passengers walk from the terminal to the helipad and depart without lines or fees or badges. Perfect. Only when I looked at the helipad I figured it was just a bit short for a SeaRey runway. SuRi's helicopter would have to do the heavy lifting for this operation.
Avenger at Bauerfield Airport Port Vila
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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After leaving the Harbourmaster's domain, SuRi sailed to where the SeaRey could be set free without worries: Port Havannah (this port had no Harbourmaster). Bob was there to join me in celebration of aerial freedom with a local tour of Efate, ending at Port Vila. He called the tower on his cell phone and got our clearance. We launched a typical low level SeaRey survey. We were below the hills and were not in radio contact the tower. That didn't stop us from hearing the new Air Vanuatu B737 report to the tower that he had traffic at 300' west of Efate. Bob quickly popped up and confirmed with tower that we were the traffic climbing after departing the water (in Vanuatu, as in New Zealand, airplanes are only permitted below 500' for takeoff or landing). I think I'm going to hate Mode S transponders.
Baofatu, Efate VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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Visual flight is prohibited in the islands after dark. We touched down shortly after sunset and parked on the grass near Air Vanuatu's maintenance facility. The crew was flushing the salt-soaked turboprops. Outside the airport fence there was no one in sight. We walked in darkness until Bob flagged down a local bus. For 150 vt per person they drove an hour to drop us off at Bob's truck back by the bay.
On the long bus ride Bob explained a bit about the harbourmaster's behavior. He said the islanders generally have an overwhelming urge to please visitors. If there is bad news, the ni-Vanuatu may say what they think the visitor wants to hear.
"When will the boat be leaving?"
"Kwik tumas" ("Very soon". Even if it's next week.
If bad news can't be avoided, the ni-Vanuatu may just leave or hide from you. That explains a lot. Maybe they have been watching American politicians.
Away from Port Vila there are no artificial lights. The stars, however, are a brilliant substitute.
Near Mangaliliu, Efate, VU
Last Flash
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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SuRi relocated overnight to the north end of Efate near Pele Island. That was far from the AWOL Harbourmaster and out-of-sight of the international airport. Perfect for SeaReying!
It was a bit of disappointment not to retrieve the boss from the airport. Better, though, to have the SeaRey ready to go outside the reach of suffocating bureaucrats.
Guests arriving SuRi near Pele Is. VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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SuRi found a fine parking place in the protected waters next to Pele Island.
Near Pele Island, VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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Not all the shore was sandy. Rock, of coral and volcanic origins, vied with sand to keep the sea away. On this shore it looked like the trees and rocks were working together to keep the water out.
Baofatu, Efate, VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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Efate was far enough from the front lines of the Pacific war to become a secure hangout for administrators. An old airfield on the north end of the island was used for training. Soil berms meant to protect airplanes from attack are still visible.
World War 2 Airfield at Baofatu, Efate VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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Cyclones frequently prowl the islands. Last March a particularly fierce Cyclone Pam pummeled Efate. With 155 mph winds the storm wrecked havoc. Some estimate that 90% of Vanuatu's buildings were affected by the cyclone. There is still plenty of repair work waiting to be done.
Baofatu, Efate, VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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There are lots of dreams in the islands that don't quite reach reality. I thought this one might have been a victim of the cyclone. Bob told me it was never finished before the cyclone and likely never would be. There is no electricity on the island, but it is a popular day trip for snorkelers from Port Vila.
Pele Island, VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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The Nguna-Pele Marine Protected Area is an attempt by some local communities to protect the area and promote eco-tourism. It was remarkably trash-free compared to some other third world islands.
East of Baofatu, Pele Island, VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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Two extinct volcanoes on the island gave hope for a sneak peek at some naked rocks. Too late. The craters are clothed in green. (For now.)
Mt. Marow, Nguna Is. VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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All that's left of the hot rocks that oozed into the ocean is one sharp tongue.
Ocean at edge of Mt. Taputaora, Nguna Is. VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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The clouds wrapped around the top of the tallest cone were (mostly) of the wet kind.
Mt. Taputaora, Nguna Is. VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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Eighty percent of ni-Vanuatu live in rural areas and small villages. The villages usually have less than 50 people and are governed by a chief. Clans from all the island villages are set up to prevent serious wars between the chiefs. We had local guides to protect us from failure to pay the clans and chiefs.
There are significant differences in the social structure between the islands of the small nation. There are 113 different languages for a population of 225,000. The islands south of Efate have chiefs that get hereditary titles with various loosely hierarchical structures. On Efate and nearby islands the title of chief is hereditary in a very rigid, formal structure tracing back at least 1200 years. In the north, from Epi through Santo there is a graded society with a spiritual emphasis. The far northern islands have graded societies with a more secular and economic emphasis. In a graded society an individual may progress through various levels gaining prestige and authority through a merit system. Reaching the highest grade involves raising, killing and eating more than 100 pigs.
Nekapa, Nguna Is. VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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A nice ending to a fine day of SeaReying boded well for future exploration of the remote islands.
West of Peli Island, VU
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 09,2016
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Orientation for island operations courtesy of the Australian military.
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Dennis Scearce - Mar 09,2016
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What a story. American pilots have it easy compared to this.
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Don Maxwell - Mar 09,2016
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Yeah, but most of us don't have it nearly as pretty.
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Philip Mendelson - Mar 10,2016
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Great job Dan!
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Dennis Scearce - Mar 10,2016
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Good point.
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Kenneth Leonard - Mar 10,2016
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Wonderful. Educational. Dreamy.
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John Dunlop - Mar 11,2016
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Wow, how fortuitous to have your travelogue, Dan!
Ellen and I will arrive Port Villa at 8am on October 27th leaving at 5pm for Mystery Island. We get there again at 8am for another 9 hours..
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Nickens, Dan - Mar 11,2016
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You need to check in with Bob Wylie, John...just don't tell Ellen I suggested it. I'm guessing she would rather hear about anything other than airplanes when cruising.
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John Dunlop - Oct 26,2016
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Hey Dan,
Ellen and I are just off Port Vila at 6:15am. It's a lovely morning and we look forward to an afternoon
snorkeling adventure once we're in Port.
Thought I'd Skype or email Bob but can't find his contact info that you gave me last spring. We only
have the morning available anyway but I should at least ask him to fly around the Ship! 😊
Been a great trip. Get to Sydney November 2nd..
'
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Nickens, Dan - Oct 26,2016
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Beautiful, eh? Well it's nice here in Hawaii too but I don't have Bob's contact info with me, John. Try calling Rob. He's got Bob's
info.
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John Dunlop - Oct 26,2016
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Got it Dan, and emailed him with cc to you.
No response after 5 hours so we'll probably hear back after we'very left this evening.
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Jim Moline - Oct 26,2016
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Welcome back John, and you arrive on my birthday, so i am looking forward to the presents you obviously will bring;-)
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John Dunlop - Oct 27,2016
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Tell you what Jim.
I'll let you rummage around in my wife's suitcase, and you can keep anything you need! 🤔
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